Ukyaykusun Peru !!

Peruvian people are proud of the INCA heritage. The local language during INCA times was Quechua. Most of the Peruvians speak Quechua and Spanish. It is amazing that the language is only a spoken dialect. There is no written form. It is even more amazing that it is passed along from generations to generations without any record keeping. “Ukyaykusun” means Cheers in Quechua language. “Pachamama” – Mother Earth is the Peruvian Goddess, literal translation Mother World. Pachamama is the provider. They worship and respect everything that comes out of the Earth. At the start of a drinking session, you spill some drink on the ground: “To the Pachamama” and then Ukyaykusun (Cheers)!!

Peru is an amazing country and the People are equally amazing. “Minimalistic” is my word to define the Culture. They believe in not using more than required, and in today’s day and age, with so many options around us, it is admirable that the Peruvians are living a minimalistic life. I wonder if it is lack of exposure or if it is a matter of choice. Either way, it is hard to believe. The locals all seemed to be satisfied with what they have. They figured out ways to be happy and smiling. Everyone I remember talking to on my trip was smiling and in a  good mood and of course very helpful. We didn’t feel like we were cheated or ripped by the locals. Given that it is a poor country, it is amazing that people are so Honest. The Cab Drivers, local Guides, souvenir sellers, none of them were overwhelming. Another great thing about the people was respect of being on time. Everything runs on time. Given the poor infrastructure, it is impressive that Peruvians have a strong sense of time.

Day 1:

We reached Lima late at night. We had decided to just camp on the Airport overnight before our early morning flight to Cusco the next day. We found a relatively quiet spot and camped for the night. The Flights all run on time unless there is a bad weather warning. So, please ignore the forums that claim the flights get cancelled for less booking. It happens but is uncommon. Lima Airport is clean and big. Several places to get food (American chain Restaurants like Starbucks, McDonalds, etc.)

We reached Cusco around 9ish in the morning. The Hotel staff came to pick us up at the Airport. We stayed at Hotel Terra Andina. I highly recommend the Hotel. The staff was very courteous and the service was excellent. The Breakfast was fresh and yummy. We stayed at Terra Andina for 2 nights and came back to spend another night after our Salkantay Trek.

Review of Hotel Terra Andina: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g294314-d564791-r131491301-Terra_Andina_Hotel-Cusco_Cusco_Region.html

We met with our Guide and Driver at around 11AM and started our tour. The first day we went to: Chinchero – Maray – Maras (Salineras) – Ollantaytambo.

Chinchero:

It is a small town with INCA ruins, a church and vendors selling knitted handicrafts. Some families have their shops in the front porch of their houses. We went to the Ruins and then to a House where a little girl gave us a demonstration on how they prepare the wool for Knitting. Clean, Dye (natural plant dyes), thread and Knit. After the demo, they will try and sell you goods. In our experience the market at Chinchero was the most expensive. You will find everything you see in this place everywhere else as well. WE made a mistake of buying a cap in Chinchero, only to discover that the same stuff is sold for much cheaper rates everywhere else. Don’t shop in Chinchero at all. For that matter, if you are pressed on time and have to decide on which place to drop, DROP Chinchero. Out of all the places we went to, Chinchero was my least favorite and in my opinion, least beautiful. The guides will tell you otherwise, but don’t drop anything else. Chinchero is probably a repeat of the INCA ruins that you will see plenty of in all of the INCA region.

Maray:

Maray is the Corn field experimentation center of the INCA. It is beautiful. It is mind-blowing to see that centuries old culture was so calculated and scientific. Definitely go to Maray. If time permits, I would highly recommend trekking to the bottom.

Maras-Salineras:

Maras are the Salt Pans called Salineras. It is one of the oldest Salt fields from the INCA times. People from the village of Maras own sections of the salt fields which they use for mining salt from the natural spring water. It is a wonderful site. Highly recommend going to Maras Salineras. You will see farmers working on their tiny field all over the place. If is a little bit of a climb down to the salt mines.

On our way, we stopped at a Potato farm. Ate baked Potatoes. The farmers dig a hole and put wood and potatoes in it and lit the wood with fire and let it burn to coal before closing the hole with mud. They wait till the potatoes are baked. The earth baked potatoes taste earthy and smoked. They also make local Farm brewed Beer using corn. It was a great experience to talk to the Farmers and click pictures.

Ollantaytambo:

The INCA ruins at Ollantaytambo are a famous tourist attraction. We reached late so didn’t get a chance to explore the entire place. The ruins were the most crowed with tourist out of all the other places we had been to. Ollantaytambo is a great little town with good Restaurants and some street shopping. We ate at Hearts Café. Highly recommend.

Review of Hearts Café: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g294319-d1059980-r131627112-Hearts_Cafe-Ollantaytambo_Sacred_Valley_Cusco_Region.html

The drive back from Ollantaytambo back to Cusco in the night is not as much fun. The roads are all dirt roads and there is barely any street lights. It is not unsafe, but if it is avoidable, don’t make this drive at night time.

Forum on the Guide: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g294314-i3023-k5484392-Beware_Cusco_Guide_Mario_Tapis_Meza_Chino-Cusco_Cusco_Region.html#41424345

Day 2:

It was a Sunday and we wanted to hit the Pisac Ruins and Pisac Sunday market.

We hired a Taxi for a half day trip. We started around 10ish after Breakfast. One tip, make sure to eat a good breakfast. It is hard to time the rest of the day. Even if you have a list of Restaurants in different places you plan to visit, it is difficult to keep the planned times. We ended up spending more time in each place than originally planned. We went to Pisac ruins. We did not do the entire hike to the Intipinku (sun temple) due to time restrictions. We made it half way and back. I highly recommend going to the Pisac ruins.

The Pisac Sunday market is colorful and lively. It was a great to shop for local handicrafts. We roamed the market for a few hours and then ate at the Blue Llama Restaurant overlooking the Market.

Review of Blue Llama Restaurant: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g294320-d1544656-r131626810-Blue_Llama-Pisac_Sacred_Valley_Cusco_Region.html

Back to Cusco around 6ish. We had our orientation scheduled for the Salkantay Trek starting the next day.

Forum on the Salkantay Trek: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g294314-i3023-k5564251-Salkantay_Trek_w_www_Salkantay_org_Thumbs_Up_and_Down-Cusco_Cusco_Region.html

We went to Map Café for Dinner. I recommend making Reservations. It is not too packed, but they are kind of sticky about making reservations. Highly recommend the Desserts.

Review of Map Café:  http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g294314-d1076634-r131510466-MAP_Cafe-Cusco_Cusco_Region.html

Day 3:

Day One of the Salkantay Trek !!

We booked our 4 Days / 3 Night Salkantay Trek with www.salkantay.org

First day of Hiking was the hardest. Given that we were not at all used to the elevation. There is a steady increase in the elevation throughout the hike.

First night, camped at the base of the Salkantay Mountain. It was breathtakingly beautiful. The mountain is a tower above all the surrounding mountains and stands out. It is snow covered and glows in the Moon and the star light. The sky had numerous stars glowing and the temperature was subzero. We were freezing in the night despite of the 4 layers of clothing and the mummy sleeping bag. It was hard to be outside of the tent and harder to not be outside and miss the beauty. It was a unforgettable view.

Day 4:

Day Two of the Salkantay Trek – Summit day – 4900 meters. YAY !!

The hike was the hardest of all the hikes I have been on so far. The physical fitness was one aspect and the lung capacity was another one. We chewed on the Cocoa leaves all through the hike up the elevation which worked like magic. Cocoa leaves juice apparently opens up your lungs (expands) and helps you get acclimatized and breath in the thin air. It was a wonderful feeling of achievement to summit the highest point of our Salkantay trek.

The way down was a killer. Definitely need stronger knees.  

We camped at a Camp site with a real Toilet. Double YAY !!

Day 5:

Day Three of the Salkantay trek.

Took a Bus to the Santa Teresa Hot water Springs. Water/Bath/Soak after 3 Days, Awesome feeling.

The dip in the Santa Teresa Hot Spring is highly recommended. It is located near the flowing/gushing river and beautiful mountain views. Try and go midday as it gets crowded during the morning and evening hours. It is a well maintained Hot Spring. Very clean rest area, bathrooms and showers.

Day 6

Day Four of the Salkantay trek – Machu Picchu – Wayna Picchu

We reached early in the morning before Sunrise and caught the Sunrise over the mountains surrounding MP. The first rays of sun illuminating the ruins was a scene to die for. It was amazingly beautiful. Serene and quite in the middle of the Tourist commotion. It takes your breath away. Feels like you want to itch the beauty in your memory and never forget the peace.

It takes about an entire day to look at the MP ruins and go up the Wayna Picchu. The panoramic views from the top of the Wayna Picchu are amazing. It is hard to not use the word “Amazing” in every other sentence to describe Machu Picchu.

We took a train from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo and bus from Ollantaytambo back to Cusco – 1 Night stay at Terra Andina – Fly to Puerto Maldonado next day morning after Breakfast.

Day 7

Wasai Eco Lodge

We were met with the Wasai lodge guide at the airport who took us to the Lodge in Puerto Maldonado. There is a boat ride of about 30 Mins. or so to get to the Wasai Eco Lodge in the Jungle. We were booked for a 4 Days / 3 Nights tour and stay with the Wasai Lodge.

Review of Wasai Lodge: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g298441-d317515-r131494918-Wasai_Maldonado_Eco_Lodge-Puerto_Maldonado_Madre_de_Dios_Region.html

Day 8

Day tours, relaxing, eating, night tours.

It was a fun adventure day with some relaxing.

Day 9

We got back to Puerto Maldonado in the morning. After lunch left for the Lake Sandoval boat tour.

The Lake has a lot of swamp areas surrounding it. The boat ride was fun thought he sun was very strong. We saw some beautiful Butterflies, tortoises, and Sea Otters.

We wanted to try the Ayuwascha. The Wasai lodge set up the session with a local Shaman. We were picked up from the lodge at late evening and we went to the Shaman’s house for the session. It was a very unusual experience. I am working on writing/describing it. J

Day 10

Next day morning we left Puerto Maldonado after Breakfast to get to Lima

Spend almost a Day in Lima. We deposited our luggage at the Airport holding service and took a cab to Miraflores. Ate lunch around there and then went to the Indian Market. This is the best place to shop in all of Peru.

Forum for Shopping in Peru: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g294311-i818-k5565132-Cheapest_Shopping_in_Peru-Peru.html

Lima definitely needs more than a day to explore. It is a fun city with lots to do. Due to limitations of time, we were not able to go around Lima. Next time.

Took a flight to get back to Austin at night.

In summary:

Kudos to people (you know who you are) who document their Trips. It was great to get all the tips and the helpful info.

4640m --> 15223 feet climb, Machu Picchu, Wayna Picchu, Amazonia, Loads of Laundry and a Cockroach (jumping out of the Suitcase) LATER…I suffered from withdrawal symptoms…I miss you Peru…And Definitely Heart You !!

Rendez-Vous `a Paris !!

Paris is Beauty !!

It has beautiful streets ending in beautiful historic buildings. Everywhere you look, there is some History, some market, some café, something beautiful. All the historic monuments are over whelming in a very nice way. Makes you wonder about the life in old days. The glamour and the romance of being in a majestic Royal world. Gautam (my husband) was in love. He was like a kid lost in a Candy store, admiring with his eyes and wishing he owned it all and lived in the Candy store for the rest of his life. It was amazing to see him in love with a city, it takes a lot to impress him. J

We (Gautam and I) were in Paris for 4 days. I wish the trip was longer. Just one city for four days and you feel like you need more time, says a lot about the place. Paris trip can be done 2 ways: The Classic Tourist way and The Explore the City way. We ended up doing a mix of the two, which was perfect.

Paris was a break between our trip from India to Austin. It was perfect way for us to relax after the 2 awesome Indian Wedding and before getting back to the Real life.

Day 1:

We arrived in Paris early around 10am in the morning to our Hotel Cordelia. The Hotel didn’t take early check-ins. They were nice enough to store our Huge Bags in the smallest storage space I have ever seen. About the hotel, Hotel Cordelia is located centrally. Very close to a Metro station and multiple Bus stands. It is near the Opéra-Madeleine. It is walking distance from a few wonderful Cafes and also from the Shopping district. The Hotel is well maintained and kept clean and warm. The rooms are really small, but manageable. The streets are noisy at night (near a Theatre) and early in the morning (Garbage Pick-up around 6:30 am). English speaking staff is a plus, but they are not the most helpful people. Well, in general Parisians are not the most helpful. Most of them are not very happy to talk to you, some are borderline rude and some are outright rude. I would recommend Hotel Cordelia for the location and price.

Read Tripadvisor Review hotel Cordelia: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187147-d228787-on6-Hotel_Cordelia-Paris_Ile_de_France.html#UR122682583

It is ironic that the feeling you get from the beauty of Paris, the place is exactly opposite to the feeling you get from the People of Paris. The people are in general not very happy. Getting a smile is extremely difficult if not almost impossible. I had read a lot about Parisians before the trip. Most of the reviews said, the people are not rude they are different. I don’t agree, the People are rude. If you don’t like to talk to Tourist, Restaurant business is not really for you. If you don’t like to be asked questions, being a Server is the last thing you should do. I understand, the economy is bad and the place is expensive, that’s why the bad attitude. BUT Tourism is the main attraction in Paris, if people are not going to be nice to tourist, they are just losing on another opportunity they have. Most of Parisians are not going to make you feel welcomed. That’s the way it is. BUT the city, streets, beauty will make you feel wonderful. I have developed this Love-Hate for Paris after being there. I will definitely go back any chance I get.

We stored our bags at the Hotel and went out to get some Breakfast and Shopping. My favorite European (Spanish) brand is Desigual (http://www.desigual.com/en_US ). As soon as I had enough energy from Breakfast, we found a Desigual store which is walking distance from Cordelia and shopped. J Another brand that I think is fun and colorful is Skunkfunk (http://www.skunkfunk.com/ ).

We went to Paris and didn’t go inside the Louvre, we didn’t see Mona Lisa. It was kind of a sin, but oh well. The Louvre is amazing, magnificent. It is beautiful from the outside, I can only imagine how awesome it is from the inside, but just too big to cover in a short time. I know Gautam would love to spend a few days in there, I am not too sure how much I will like it. I have had people gasp at the thought of going to Paris and not going inside Louvre. It is kind of how I like it. The next time I am in Paris I might just not go inside Louvre again, I know Gautam will take a day to see Louvre from inside. I rather roam the streets, go to Cafes and Shop.

We got ready and went to Champs Elysees. The street is lined with Designer Brand stores on both side. Champs Elysees has Arc of Triumph on one end and a street market on the other end. The Entire street was lit up with Lights. It is lively and beautiful. We walked to the Arc and then to the Ferris wheel. We didn’t go on the Ferris Wheel, but the next time I am in Paris I definitely want to check the View from the top of the Ferris wheel. The Ferris Wheel is between the Arc and Louvre. The Pyramid at Louvre in the night is magnificent. It is beautiful and amazing. We also got the first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower.

The first night we went for a Cabaret show. We went to Le Lido ( http://www.lido.fr/ ) , it is located on Champs Elysees. A more modern and newer show. I recommend buying the Tickets that include a bottle of Champagne and Macaroons. It got us coat check-in, Program Booklet and intimate round sofa with a great view. The show is symbolic of the old culture and life in Paris. It was extremely entertaining. Some acts were excellent. The singing and dancing is enticing. I would definitely recommend going for a Cabaret show in Paris. Local Music and Dance is the best way to experience the culture and the city. We went to Lido which is a modern twist to the old culture. If you want to experience the authentic Cabaret, I would recommend going to Moulin Rouge. Mostly for the location. It is located in the old Red-light district of Paris. The show in itself, from all the reviews I had checked, looks like are comparable. We decided based on the type of Tickets Lido offered. Nonetheless, whichever Cabaret you go to, make it a part of your Paris experience.

Read Tripadvisor Review of Le Lido: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187147-d245091-r122873502-Le_Lido-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

Day 2:

The second day in Paris started off with Breakfast of Croissant, fresh orange juice and Coffee. Fresh Orange Juice in Paris is awesome. Every Breakfast you have in Paris, make sure to drink Fresh Orange Juice and of course Croissant and Coffee. We took a half day Bike tour of the city. Starts at the Eiffel Tower and takes you around the city. We took the tour with Fat Tire Bike Tours. I have taken a city tour with Fat Tire in Barcelona as well. They are very professional and the equipment is always great. The Guides are usually expats and not locals. The guides are usually very knowledgeable about the city and are also helpful with recommendations. The pace of the tour was great for clicking come pictures and knowing the history. The half day tour takes a break for Lunch, that’s how I discovered the street market near Louvre and the Luxor Obelisk. And that’s when I FELL IN LOVE with Paris Street Market food. Crepes, oh Crepes, how I love you. Add Nutella and Banana to you and I am in heaven. J Eat tons and tons of Crepes with Nutella and Banana when you are in Paris. Another find was Vin Chaud (Hot Wine). YUM is the word. Hot wine is Red wine spiced with exotic spices and served steaming hot. I almost OD’ed on it. J Another Food love: Waffles served hot with Nutella.

Read Tripadvisor Review of Fat Tire Bike Tour: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187147-d577423-r122838859-Fat_Tire_Bike_Tours_Paris-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

After the Bike tour we went to the Notre Dame church. This is probably the most crowded tourist place in Paris after Eiffel tower. It is a beautiful location. The Church is overwhelming architecture. There was a line to get in. It is magnificent and serene from the inside. You feel like taking a break and sitting down and soaking all the quietness. It was packed with tourist and locals alike. A lot of them where sitting and praying and watching it all makes you feel good and at peace. I am glad we went it. Churches have the magic to sooth and calm. On the outside it has all the Gargoyles, the protectors. We were a bit late to go on the top, but make sure to check times and make it to the top. I am sure you will be able to get great shots of the Gorgoyles of Notre Dame with the City in the background.

The second night we went to a Standup comedy show. “How to become a Parisian in an Hour?”. It was rated number 1 things to do in Paris when we took our trip. It is the only comedy show in Paris that is in English. Comedy is a big part of Parisian culture. It feels like sarcasm comes naturally. I love sarcastic comedy and so I loved the show. Olivier Giraud (Comedian) has good sense of Comic timing. He was funny and kept the tempo up for the entire hour. The Theatre is located in a small alley and not very easy to find, make sure to give yourself enough time to get there for good seats. It is a small theatre with wooden benches and pillows for back support. Feels really authentic. The making fun of Americans is a little dragged, but in all the content of the show is hilarious and so very true. I wish we had gone to the show the first night in Paris, gives you a perspective on the Parisian attitude. After watching this show, the rude behavior of the Parisian people was borderline funny. It was tolerable. Definitely make time to check this out. For us, it was time and money well spent.

Read Tripadvisor Review of Stand Up Comedy show: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187147-d1853199-r122838058-How_to_become_Parisian_in_one_hour-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

Day 3:

Finally it was New Year’s Day. 31^st Dec 2011.

Mission: Eiffel tower !!

It is magnanimous. It towers over you and makes a firm statement. I didn’t think I will be so delighted to see it. It is amazing how you are reminded of Tall Mountains when you look at Tall man made Structures. One is a marvel of God and another is a marvel of Human. Clicking Pictures with the Eiffel Tower was a lot of fun. We did go up to the Viewing area in the back to get good shots and great views. Another delightful street market to pick up knick knacks and eat. Waffles and Crepes and Sandwiches and of course Vin Chaud (Hot Wine).

We looked up a few places to go party and lounge before Midnight. Unfortunately, we were unlucky and didn’t find any of the places open. Kind of weird that Party places were closed on 31^st Night. Paris was a bit disappointing in general for 31^st Night. I was expecting a lot more.

DON’T go to the Eiffel Tower for New Years. It was extremely disappointing. We were expecting fireworks and an awesome light show, based on the things we had heard. It was a huge disappointment. The only thing that happened in the name of a light show at Eiffel Tower was shimmering lights are midnight for 5 minutes or so. What a disappointment. We should have gone to Champs Elysees for New Years. The street parties are a lot of fun. Next time, if ever. Also, we made the mistake of taking the Metro from Eiffel tower after midnight on 31^st. It was a horrible experience. It was extremely crowded. It was free but not at all worth it. We should have walked instead or waited for a Taxi. There were about 10,000 people at Eiffel, most trying to get someplace else after midnight. It was a nightmare to get in the Metro. Overall, I was disappointed. New Years in Paris at Eiffel Tower was DULL.

Day4 :

Arc de Triomphe, Moulin Rogue and Sacre Coeur.

First stop: Arc de Triomphe. It is a beautiful monument built to honor the Soldiers of War. It has honors inscribed all over it and tombs of soldiers beneath it. Another great place to get great shots, with the Arc and on Champs Elysees.

The traditional Red Light District of Paris: District of Pigalle. It is lined with Sex Shops on both sides of the street. It is a famous tourist place to visit. Moulin Rogue Cabaret is located on this street. It was fun to walk along this street and explore the shops. From the outside it looks like any other street in Paris, till you start peeking in the Display windows. Take a stroll down this street and slick some pictures. It is  fun.

Sacre Coeur. We took the Metro to get there. It is a bit of a winding hike up the hill to get Sacre Coeur. Lined with yet another market. It has a open area with Painters Drinking and Painting. It is celebrations on weekends. It also has a great panoramic view of the City. Sacre Coeur is a beautiful Church in a  great location with the hustle bustle and excitement around it. Make sure to take a half day trip tp Sacre Coeur.

In the evening we went back to Eiffel Tower. Views of the Tower at night and the mandatory trip to the top of the Eiffel Tower. One of the Things to Do. It has great views from the top (of course). It can get cold, windy and even rainy at night in Dec. Make sure to carry a jacket and an umbrella or a raincoat. We had partial great views and partial cloudy views. There is a display at the top which marks the distance of the tower from each major metro city in the world. Which is fun to watch.

We roamed the streets, shopped on Champs Elysees. Ate at the Cafes.

The street food in Paris is amazing. I know Gautam doesn’t agree, but I loved it. Make sure to eat Crepes, Waffles, Con Churros and Hot Chestnuts sold by street vendors. Vegetarian Sandwich (crunchy bread and grilled veggies) are relatively easy to find. We ate different kinds of Pastas (Pesto, red chilli, etc) in the Cafes which were all great. In general it is relatively easy to find Vegetarian food in Paris. Each and everything I tried from the street markets was yummy. If you want to save time and have a quick delicious bite, street vendors are the best place to get lunch. Cafes are usually very slow. So, if you want to maximize your time, eat on the streets. Make sure to learn a few French words. It is easier to explain if you have special Diet Needs. For us, it was “Vegetarian(Vegetarien), No Meat (viande), No Fish (poisson), Egg (oeuf) and Cheese (fromage) is OK”.

We missed out on the popular Bakeries in Paris. Gautam is still upset about it, so we plan to go back and eat tons of French Pastries. I recommend reading wiki for the Food and Drinks specialties of the country while planning your trip.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cuisine

Salut Paris !!